Tomorrow Waddles and I head north to British Columbia. Our final destination is Prince George, to attend a weaving conference. We will be camping with friends who have a tiny home-made teardrop, so it will be fun to compare our experiences. We will be traveling for just about 2 weeks, although 6 days in the middle will be stationed in Prince George at an RV park.

In preparation, my mechanic/all-around handyman has been working with me to see if we could solve the mystery of why the Norcold refrigerator/freezer does not always work. We have tested every scenario, and I've been reading a lot of the on-line T@G forums to see what others have experienced and discovered. It runs fine when hooked up to shore power, and when the trailer battery is being charged (while plugged into the car, with the car running, or hooked up to the solar panel with lots of sunshine). When it is running strictly off the trailer battery, with no other charging source, it fails. It will not hold a cold temperature, and the error light comes on, indicating not enough voltage, even when the voltage meter says there should be enough.
The on-line forums indicate that the only successful fix is to rewire the refrigerator directly to the battery. Evidently the original wiring is only 16 gauge wire, and should be 10 gauge, and it is routed through the kitchen outlets, so there is not enough juice getting through the wire when it is only powered by the batteries.
So we bought a new cord for the battery which plugs directly into a cigarette lighter to see if we could by-pass the issue. We only tested this by running the cord through the trailer cigarette lighter, which didn't solve the issue. We then cut the cigarette plug off the cord, and hooked it directly to a battery and BEHOLD, the refrigerator works; holds a cold temperature, doesn't error out, and has a much smaller drain on the batteries. This is a puzzling thing, but it works. So.....
Mechanic-man went to work.... (there is a parts list at the end of this post for anyone who might want to know)
First he ran the 10 gauge wire through a 1/2 conduit, just like what the factory wiring runs through (although mine is white and heavier because that is what we had on hand). He says 7' of conduit is more than enough (mine is not a T@G max, just the little one). In this photo the black conduit is factory, the white is what he added
Then he drilled a small hole in the back of the refrigerator area (carefully). See the white dot in the back right corner? We ran the 10 gauge wires up through that hole.
We were not able to find just the PLUG to put on the end of the new wire, so we spliced the new wire into the cigarette lighter cord we had purchased.
Securely spliced together
We left the old wire, but secured the new wire to the trailer in place of the old wire. See the old black wire coiled up and hanging now.
With all that in place it was time to move to the front of the trailer. Remember, we have already replaced the old 12 volt battery with 2 deep cycle 6 volt batteries so that is what we needed to attach the new wire too.
There is now a nice rubber washer holding the wires in place where they come through to the front of the trailer.
All wires outside the conduit were wrapped in this spiral covering to protect them.
We could not find a 10 gauge in-line fuse so we went with 20. Overkill, and we will likely replace this if/when we find a 10.
The in-line fuse is outside the battery cover so I can easily pull the fuse when I'm not running the refrigerator, which I also do with the regular fuse because of the phantom drain that occurs.
I am so very excited to have a refrigerator that works! The first 4 nights of my trip I will not have shore power, so I was worried about food going bad, and was prepared with jugs of frozen water to help hold the temperature in the fridge.
With this issue solved, I believe that Waddles and I just may live happily ever after.
Oh, one other 'fix' I've done since the last trip. If you recall, I use a small-ish propane Heater Buddy for a quick warm up in Waddles when it's cold outside.
Others have recommended using a little electric heater when plugged in to shore power, but the way my trailer is configured I could not plug it into the wall plug without it touching something flammable. SO, I purchased a long, flexible extension cord, now I can hang it up where it is safe. I am looking forward to trying this out during the time I'll be on shore power (about 6 nights on this trip). The electric heater has a thermostat and a timer, so it will turn itself off, although I'm pretty sure I will never go to sleep with it on, nor leave it on in the trailer if I'm not there. The inside space is so small it doesn't take much to heat it up, and it stays pretty cozy.
I think we are all ready to leave in the morning.... let the adventure begin!
For those who want to know, here is a materials list for the rewiring project:
- 7' of 1/2" conduit
- 2 1/2" u-clamps to clamp it to the frame. You can see how the factory conduit was installed, same thing.
- 12' of 10 gauge wire, one red, one black
- New plug for the Norcold if you don't want to use the factory one. We used the cigarette lighter cord plug because we could not find just the plug anywhere.
- In-line fuse - 10 gauge if you can find it, we used 20
- Electrical splicing pieces for putting the plug on one end, and for putting the in-line fuse on the other end
- Battery terminal rings for connecting to the battery.
As my mechanic said when we put this list together, "It sounds so simple when you list the parts". This project took all day, and he didn't take many breaks.